Canine Behavior Counseling
Bringing balance and joy to dogs and their owners…
Training Info
Reward-based Training that Works!
08/30/10 06:11
Reward Bases Training
Rewarding your dog for appropriate behavior is not a new concept, however many of us are “old school” and simple grew up telling our dog what to do. Using rewards or reinforcement will help your dog want to please you more often!
What is Reinforcement?
Reinforcement is something you add to your training to increase or strengthen a behavior. High pitch praise, food, laughing, clapping, freedom, walks, going out the door, bones, tug you get it! I want you to help your dog understand that when he complies life is good for him and that there are consequences for his actions which will help him make the correct decision!
Mark the Behavior
Timing is very important as this is how you communicate with your dog. Dogs do not speak our language so they can only associate a behavior with a reward or a correction, and only if the time between the two is very short. Using a marker like a “yes” or clicker will speed your dogs learning. Marking involves having effective timing so you mark the exact moment the dog does the correct behavior then follow through with reinforcement!
Rate of Reinforcement
Reward often, our dogs learn through associations, so rewards help them know when they are doing something appropriate to us. To strengthen the behavior you want you should continue to reward. How often should you reward? As often as needed! Really good trainers reward generously which keeps the dog motivated in the task at hand. If you mark a behavior with a click or “yes”, then always follow through with a reward.
Put it all together
The dog that pulls on the leash is very frustrating to walk. Try using a marker to help the dog understand what it is you want. When the dog pulls, stop walking, using a clicker, click and reward when your dog looks at you, be patient! Repeat until your dog begins to look at you while you are moving forward together. Take two steps, if your dog looks at you REWARD! then three, then five, then several, then for longer and longer distances. The dog is being paid to focus on you; it cannot do that and pull at the same time. If your dog pulls, stop again and wait until he looks at you, then reward. Eventually just putting on the leash can become a cue for "walking together." Paying your dog for heeling nicely is much more effective than punishing the pull. It's also more effective than the physical intervention of hauling the dog's head and neck around repeatedly by the leash, which will give you a sore arm before too long! Have fun and watch your dog learn quickly through marking and rewarding!
Rewarding your dog for appropriate behavior is not a new concept, however many of us are “old school” and simple grew up telling our dog what to do. Using rewards or reinforcement will help your dog want to please you more often!
What is Reinforcement?
Reinforcement is something you add to your training to increase or strengthen a behavior. High pitch praise, food, laughing, clapping, freedom, walks, going out the door, bones, tug you get it! I want you to help your dog understand that when he complies life is good for him and that there are consequences for his actions which will help him make the correct decision!
Mark the Behavior
Timing is very important as this is how you communicate with your dog. Dogs do not speak our language so they can only associate a behavior with a reward or a correction, and only if the time between the two is very short. Using a marker like a “yes” or clicker will speed your dogs learning. Marking involves having effective timing so you mark the exact moment the dog does the correct behavior then follow through with reinforcement!
Rate of Reinforcement
Reward often, our dogs learn through associations, so rewards help them know when they are doing something appropriate to us. To strengthen the behavior you want you should continue to reward. How often should you reward? As often as needed! Really good trainers reward generously which keeps the dog motivated in the task at hand. If you mark a behavior with a click or “yes”, then always follow through with a reward.
Put it all together
The dog that pulls on the leash is very frustrating to walk. Try using a marker to help the dog understand what it is you want. When the dog pulls, stop walking, using a clicker, click and reward when your dog looks at you, be patient! Repeat until your dog begins to look at you while you are moving forward together. Take two steps, if your dog looks at you REWARD! then three, then five, then several, then for longer and longer distances. The dog is being paid to focus on you; it cannot do that and pull at the same time. If your dog pulls, stop again and wait until he looks at you, then reward. Eventually just putting on the leash can become a cue for "walking together." Paying your dog for heeling nicely is much more effective than punishing the pull. It's also more effective than the physical intervention of hauling the dog's head and neck around repeatedly by the leash, which will give you a sore arm before too long! Have fun and watch your dog learn quickly through marking and rewarding!
Having a Baby?
04/26/10 09:51
Was your first baby your dog? Mine was. In fact, I had two small mix breeds when I brought home my first of 3 babies! I want to give you some important advice and offer you some practical training that will help your dog love your new bundle of joy!
Let me first say “Congratulations” on your new addition or future addition!
Desensitization and training your dog can certainly help ease the transition of having a new, noisy bundle of joy in the home, but nothing is more important than safety. We know that most dog bites are directed at children. Why? The main reason is that dogs tend to be guarders, even the most wonderful dog can decide to guard food or a toy from a child. The second most common reason is fear. If a dog has never been socialized with children, they can be quite scary! The third most common is rough play or accidental bites. For these reasons, I do not recommend ever leaving a child under the age of 9 or 10 alone with a dog.
Here are a few tips I think you will find helpful in helping your dogs adjust to your new baby!
Positive Association/Desensitization:
Purchase or borrow a baby doll, one that cries, giggles or talks is best. Wrap it up and pretend you are holding, burping and cuddling your baby. When the dog comes to sniff, praise them while quickly setting boundaries. Ask for a sit and then reward! If you have two dogs, only allow one dog at a time to investigate the new doll, stroller, basinet, diaper bag, etc. If you like to use a clicker in training, then you would click and treat when the dog sniffs any new object providing the dog with positive feedback. A dog that gets punished every time he approaches the new baby will soon learn that the baby = punishment, I do not like the baby, grrrrr. Remember, the goal is that whenever the dogs are near the baby, great things happen with boundaries in place!
If you get frustrated every time your baby cries, the dogs will associate stress with the sounds the baby makes which will cause the dog to be nervous/anxious. If the baby makes a crying sound as it approaches your pup, can he become reactive to the baby? People always say “there was no warning or reason for the dog bite.” There is always a reason, we just miss our dogs signals. Practicing “calm energy” will not only be good for your dog, it will be great for you!
Give your Dog Feedback/Set Boundaries:
Practice putting the baby doll in a stroller and walking the dogs with the pretend baby so they get use to keeping their toes out of the way, the sounds it makes and wide turns. Practice having the dogs sit often especially when you see another dog, this is best done behind the stroller, just in case they dash toward a dog, you want your leashes to be behind the stroller so they won't risk knocking your stroller over.
Practice laying the pretend baby on the floor on his/her blanket. Teach the dog that the blanket is not to be stepped on. How? Put a leash on your dog and practice walking past the blanket, say “off” if your pup starts to walk on the blanket. When he begins to avoid stepping on the blanket, reward! After several repetitions of rewarding the dog for good behavior, practice with the dog off leash. Do this in several rooms of the house, even on the deck or yard. Once your dog learns the rules and gets rewarded for it, he will be happy to comply. (For more information on this topic, read my blog titled “When Your Pup Asks Why”.)
What boundaries will you set around the highchair? What if at 6 months your baby starts to eat solid foods from the high chair, and some gets on the floor. Now your baby is 12 months old and is a messy eater! For 6 months Max your sweet Labrador has been rewarded for sitting nicely by the highchair, hey, he cleans up the floor, who would complain? What if at 14 months Mom says “stop feeding the dog, please keep your food on your tray”. Your child’s arm often dangles over the side, but no more food is randomly dropped. Max is use to being rewarded, Max gets excited and jumps up to take the food, but bites through your child’s hand on accident. Is Max a bad dog? Could this have been prevented? Absolutely.
Appropriate Play/Accidental:
Teaching your dog the rules of play are essential, such as “take it” and “drop it”. If you allow your dog to jump up and steal the tug toy from you, then expect him to do the same to your toddler. Teaching him to only take toys or food on cue, will prevent him from taking things from your child’s hands. If you allow your dog to jump up then sit, he will again do this same behavior with children. Teach him to come, sit and reward!
The Anxious/Fearful dog:
Finally, keep your dog in a safe place if he is fearful of children. Many dogs come into rescue with a fear of children. Slowly letting them gain confidence at a distance is key to building his positive association. Having a toddler or child toss food to a nervous dog will help, the key is to take this SLOW and always just toss, do not attempt hand feeding for weeks. Make sure your anxious dog never feels confined with a scary child in the room, this is a recipe for disaster. Confinement can be on a leash, trapped in a crate, in a room, a car, small back yard, a hug (most dogs hate hugs anyway, please never let your child hum your dog). The bottom line is make your dog feel safe if he is anxious around kids until you work with a trainer to desensitize him.
I hope you understand how many dog bites can be prevented if we only pay attention to what we are teaching and rewarding our dogs for. So be an aware dog owner and keep both your child and dog safe!
Let me first say “Congratulations” on your new addition or future addition!
Desensitization and training your dog can certainly help ease the transition of having a new, noisy bundle of joy in the home, but nothing is more important than safety. We know that most dog bites are directed at children. Why? The main reason is that dogs tend to be guarders, even the most wonderful dog can decide to guard food or a toy from a child. The second most common reason is fear. If a dog has never been socialized with children, they can be quite scary! The third most common is rough play or accidental bites. For these reasons, I do not recommend ever leaving a child under the age of 9 or 10 alone with a dog.
Here are a few tips I think you will find helpful in helping your dogs adjust to your new baby!
Positive Association/Desensitization:
Purchase or borrow a baby doll, one that cries, giggles or talks is best. Wrap it up and pretend you are holding, burping and cuddling your baby. When the dog comes to sniff, praise them while quickly setting boundaries. Ask for a sit and then reward! If you have two dogs, only allow one dog at a time to investigate the new doll, stroller, basinet, diaper bag, etc. If you like to use a clicker in training, then you would click and treat when the dog sniffs any new object providing the dog with positive feedback. A dog that gets punished every time he approaches the new baby will soon learn that the baby = punishment, I do not like the baby, grrrrr. Remember, the goal is that whenever the dogs are near the baby, great things happen with boundaries in place!
If you get frustrated every time your baby cries, the dogs will associate stress with the sounds the baby makes which will cause the dog to be nervous/anxious. If the baby makes a crying sound as it approaches your pup, can he become reactive to the baby? People always say “there was no warning or reason for the dog bite.” There is always a reason, we just miss our dogs signals. Practicing “calm energy” will not only be good for your dog, it will be great for you!
Give your Dog Feedback/Set Boundaries:
Practice putting the baby doll in a stroller and walking the dogs with the pretend baby so they get use to keeping their toes out of the way, the sounds it makes and wide turns. Practice having the dogs sit often especially when you see another dog, this is best done behind the stroller, just in case they dash toward a dog, you want your leashes to be behind the stroller so they won't risk knocking your stroller over.
Practice laying the pretend baby on the floor on his/her blanket. Teach the dog that the blanket is not to be stepped on. How? Put a leash on your dog and practice walking past the blanket, say “off” if your pup starts to walk on the blanket. When he begins to avoid stepping on the blanket, reward! After several repetitions of rewarding the dog for good behavior, practice with the dog off leash. Do this in several rooms of the house, even on the deck or yard. Once your dog learns the rules and gets rewarded for it, he will be happy to comply. (For more information on this topic, read my blog titled “When Your Pup Asks Why”.)
What boundaries will you set around the highchair? What if at 6 months your baby starts to eat solid foods from the high chair, and some gets on the floor. Now your baby is 12 months old and is a messy eater! For 6 months Max your sweet Labrador has been rewarded for sitting nicely by the highchair, hey, he cleans up the floor, who would complain? What if at 14 months Mom says “stop feeding the dog, please keep your food on your tray”. Your child’s arm often dangles over the side, but no more food is randomly dropped. Max is use to being rewarded, Max gets excited and jumps up to take the food, but bites through your child’s hand on accident. Is Max a bad dog? Could this have been prevented? Absolutely.
Appropriate Play/Accidental:
Teaching your dog the rules of play are essential, such as “take it” and “drop it”. If you allow your dog to jump up and steal the tug toy from you, then expect him to do the same to your toddler. Teaching him to only take toys or food on cue, will prevent him from taking things from your child’s hands. If you allow your dog to jump up then sit, he will again do this same behavior with children. Teach him to come, sit and reward!
The Anxious/Fearful dog:
Finally, keep your dog in a safe place if he is fearful of children. Many dogs come into rescue with a fear of children. Slowly letting them gain confidence at a distance is key to building his positive association. Having a toddler or child toss food to a nervous dog will help, the key is to take this SLOW and always just toss, do not attempt hand feeding for weeks. Make sure your anxious dog never feels confined with a scary child in the room, this is a recipe for disaster. Confinement can be on a leash, trapped in a crate, in a room, a car, small back yard, a hug (most dogs hate hugs anyway, please never let your child hum your dog). The bottom line is make your dog feel safe if he is anxious around kids until you work with a trainer to desensitize him.
I hope you understand how many dog bites can be prevented if we only pay attention to what we are teaching and rewarding our dogs for. So be an aware dog owner and keep both your child and dog safe!
Is Your Dog Subborn?
03/14/10 20:05
You have no doubt at one time or another thought your dog was ignoring you! With so much information out there about dog training it is somewhat confusing to decipher what your dog is really thinking!
I am hear to set the record straight on the Stubborn Dog!
The REALITY is, dogs in many ways are just like kids. Some dogs will pick up things much quicker than other dogs and some will take additional repetitions. Often in my classes I will see a dog with a “wide mouth pant”, or “stop and sniff the ground” or “look away” from his/her owner, this is my cue to help the owner with their timing or body language as the dog is clearly becoming confused and often stressed.
Often times dog fail to learn a cue because the owners TIMING is off, even the slightest second can reward a dog for dropping a toy instead of picking it up! I know I have made this mistake myself!
When trainers say “reward the behavior you want”, this means over time! Please do not expect your dog to become consistent after one training session. Many people do not realize that dogs do not generalize well. For this reason we need to have them practice their behaviors in many different environments with a variety of distractions so their behaviors become automatic or spontaneous.
Always consider the “dogs point of view”, is there something scary about the environment? Often our dogs are distracted by the sounds, smells, and movements around them so they may have missed a cue. Does the dog have a positive association with his surroundings? Is the dog feeling well? Often dogs will sit at an angle to alleviate hip discomfort. Is your dog in conflict? You may be calling your dog, but the big black German Shepherd at the other end of the room already gave your pup the “look”, should he go to mom/dad and risk a reprimand or just stay where he is as it is safe!
When Annie did not want to heel for me on a street walk recently, I stopped and looked at her, knowing she was not being stubborn, I realized I was caring a full doggie poop bag with her leash. As soon as I moved the poop to the other hand, she resumed her place by my left side!
Another example, a client’s Jack Russell would not get in to her car anymore. She just ran around the car and refused to jump in as she had done for months. I asked her to drive her car out of the car port and ask her girl to get in, with no hesitation the Jack Russell jumped in the car like always. We realized on occasion she was receiving a shock from the wet floor. She was convinced her dog was Stubborn until we solved the mystery!
Finally, consider what motivates your dog. A recent client just installed an invisible fence and the dog is enjoying FREEDOM, rolling in the grass, sniffing, digging, peeing, you get the idea. Do you think the dog will come in? Come in from this new amazing freedom, in this context “come” is obviously a negative to the dog! But, if you reward your dog for coming in the house with a game of tug, belly scratch or cheese for a while then “come” becomes a positive!
So the next time you start to say your dog is STUBB...., stop and really ask your self why your dog is behaving the way he/she is, I am sure you will find a real reason!
When pups ask "Why?"
09/29/09 09:25
Develop a lifestyle...
I say it all the time in class, “take your puppy everywhere you go” if possible. In order to get your puppy to be happy and balanced, you need to socialize him/her to the world we live in. But to get your puppy to respond to you here, there, and everywhere, she needs to be trained here, there, and everywhere! Train your puppy using many short sessions each day. A favorite author of mine, Ian Dunbar, says: “The secret is to totally integrate training into both your puppy's lifestyle and your lifestyle.” That is so true!
Like in Puppy class, ask your pup to perform many cues per day. For example, call your puppy for a body-position sequence (like a “Sit”, “Sit Stay") with variable length stays in each position whenever you go into the kitchen, go out to get the mail, sit in your favorite chair or go to the car. If you instruct your pup to perform a simple body-position sequence on every such occasion, you will easily be able to train your puppy many times a day without deviating from your normal lifestyle. Remember using the NIFF (nothing is for free) habit, not only teaches your pup to use polite manners, it also exercises his brain and helps remind him that you are his leader, not roommate!
Practice, Practice, Practice...
Helping your dog to see you as the calm confident leader will help him avoid many of the behavior problems people do not like. Such as door dashing, barking out the window, chewing on your arm and not coming when called. With this in mind, practice moving your dogs feet several times a day. This is a nice way of letting your pup know that you are in charge. Have your pup move out of your way rather than walking around him, ask him to move off his bed and have a seat yourself. Teach your dog to fetch your paper, his ball or toy! I often sit on the couch in the evening with my dogs (Sophie, my foster dog is against my leg as I type this
) But the key is that she asks politely to join me. When she comes and bounces up and down, I know she wants up, I ask her to “wait”, she sits and waits until I say “ok”, then up she comes! We expect our children to ask politely, why not teach our dogs to have polite manners as well? Another example, people automatically assume that it is bad to let your dog sleep on your bed. The truth is it is fine, as long as it is on YOUR terms. My Pablo will stand by my bed with his head resting on the mattress and wait for me to say “ok”. Sometimes I say, “get in your bed” followed by “good boy” he does what I ask without question. When this becomes your new lifestyle, your puppy will see no difference between playing and training. Fun times will have structure and rules they can live with and training will be fun!
Forming habits you can live with...
Practice short training sessions with quick sits, stays and emotional control moments into your puppy's walks and off-leash play times. Each quick sit is immediately reinforced by allowing the dog to resume walking or playing, which becomes the reward. Practicing emotional control with quick sits before each and every activity with your dog (like riding in the car, watching you fix their dinner, lying on the couch, and playing doggy games). For example, have your dog sit before you throw a tennis ball, before you put the leash on. Add duration to your cues of sit-stay with each repetition. Ask your dog to wait before he goes out the door, before he eats, or before he/she jumps out of the car.

Right from the start, make frequent little quiet moments part of your dog's daily routine. Remember, a puppy is not like an irritating child's toy. You cannot simply remove the batteries from a rambunctious adolescent dog. Instead you must learn how to "turn off" your dog. Learn to use walks and your puppy's favorite and most exciting games as rewards for settling down quietly and calmly.
Throughout the course of the day, have your puppy settle down for longer periods of time at home. For example, when watching the television, have your pup lie down on-leash, or in his bed, but during the commercial breaks, release the puppy for short, active play-training sessions.
When playing with your puppy, have him take a break every 30 seconds or so. To begin with, have the pup lie still for just two seconds before letting it play again. Use a release command, such as "Free Dog," "Ok", or "Let's Play." After 30 seconds, interrupt the play session again with a three-second quiet moment. Then try for four seconds. And then five, eight, ten, and so on. Alternate "Settle Down" with "Go Play" and with each repetition, it becomes progressively easier to get your puppy to settle down quickly.
Once your pup gets the picture, the exercise may be profitably practiced on walks. When walking round the block, periodically have your puppy settle down for just a few seconds before resuming the walk. An entertaining way to train is to instruct your pup to settle down every twenty yards or so, while you read this article! I hope you will read and re-read it many times!
Positive Reinforcement...
Puppies are easy to train. In fact, a young puppy will do just about anything you ask, especially when we use that sweet pitch as a reward! As the puppy grows into an adolescence, however, it begins to ask world-shattering questions, such as "Why?"
Just because your puppy has learned what "Sit" means, it does not necessarily mean she will sit when you request her to do so. Therefore, the most important ingredient of any educational program, weather for children or dogs, is "Why comply?" You must teach the relevance of complying. I believe, once you have taught your puppy the positive consequences of cooperating, she will eagerly want to behave!
Make it Fun...
First ask yourself, what does my puppy love? Make a list! Then institute a simple and effective rule: Nothing will be denied, nor withheld from the pup, but the puppy has to sit beforehand. It's just common canine courtesy, really. Nothing more than a puppy "please."
Does your puppy like to play Tug? Great! this is a fun game and will give your pup some indoor exercise! The key to this game is following the rules: Your pup must wait until you make eye contact and say “take it” before grabbing the tug toy. After some good tugging, look away, relax your arm and say “leave it”. If your pup doesn’t know this cue yet, offer a treat to reward him for letting go. After some practice, you will not need to reward with a treat.
In no time at all, your pup will learn the importance of complying with your wishes and will be only too willing, eager, and happy to oblige. Now your dog will want to do what you want it to do because you make her life fun and exciting! Positive Reinforcement is “heads-and-tails” above any adverse training programs!

Basically, you need to convince your pup that he or she is the trainer and you are the pupil! As Ian Dunbar says in his book, After You Get Your Puppy, your puppy needs to believe, "Sitting is the canine cue — the veritable key to the door — which makes my owners do anything I want. If I sit, they will open doors (how courteous). If I sit, they will massage my ears (how affectionate). If I sit, they will share the couch (how cooperative). If I sit, they will throw the tennis ball (how athletic). And if I sit, they will serve supper (how well-trained)."
Rewards...
The rewards of having a well mannered dog are endless! For starters, you can take your dog anywhere and not be stressed. Having a well behaved dog saves time as you can get through your day with less hassle, and you can be proud of you pup! Inviting friends over to the house is no longer dreaded as your pup has a new set of skills to show off! Jumping on Grandma is no longer an issue because your dog has learned to sit when ever he meets a new person. No sit, no reward, it is that simple!
So be a great dog owner and give your dog plenty of Reinforcement for well performed behaviors!
I say it all the time in class, “take your puppy everywhere you go” if possible. In order to get your puppy to be happy and balanced, you need to socialize him/her to the world we live in. But to get your puppy to respond to you here, there, and everywhere, she needs to be trained here, there, and everywhere! Train your puppy using many short sessions each day. A favorite author of mine, Ian Dunbar, says: “The secret is to totally integrate training into both your puppy's lifestyle and your lifestyle.” That is so true!
Like in Puppy class, ask your pup to perform many cues per day. For example, call your puppy for a body-position sequence (like a “Sit”, “Sit Stay") with variable length stays in each position whenever you go into the kitchen, go out to get the mail, sit in your favorite chair or go to the car. If you instruct your pup to perform a simple body-position sequence on every such occasion, you will easily be able to train your puppy many times a day without deviating from your normal lifestyle. Remember using the NIFF (nothing is for free) habit, not only teaches your pup to use polite manners, it also exercises his brain and helps remind him that you are his leader, not roommate!
Practice, Practice, Practice...
Helping your dog to see you as the calm confident leader will help him avoid many of the behavior problems people do not like. Such as door dashing, barking out the window, chewing on your arm and not coming when called. With this in mind, practice moving your dogs feet several times a day. This is a nice way of letting your pup know that you are in charge. Have your pup move out of your way rather than walking around him, ask him to move off his bed and have a seat yourself. Teach your dog to fetch your paper, his ball or toy! I often sit on the couch in the evening with my dogs (Sophie, my foster dog is against my leg as I type this
) But the key is that she asks politely to join me. When she comes and bounces up and down, I know she wants up, I ask her to “wait”, she sits and waits until I say “ok”, then up she comes! We expect our children to ask politely, why not teach our dogs to have polite manners as well? Another example, people automatically assume that it is bad to let your dog sleep on your bed. The truth is it is fine, as long as it is on YOUR terms. My Pablo will stand by my bed with his head resting on the mattress and wait for me to say “ok”. Sometimes I say, “get in your bed” followed by “good boy” he does what I ask without question. When this becomes your new lifestyle, your puppy will see no difference between playing and training. Fun times will have structure and rules they can live with and training will be fun!Forming habits you can live with...
Practice short training sessions with quick sits, stays and emotional control moments into your puppy's walks and off-leash play times. Each quick sit is immediately reinforced by allowing the dog to resume walking or playing, which becomes the reward. Practicing emotional control with quick sits before each and every activity with your dog (like riding in the car, watching you fix their dinner, lying on the couch, and playing doggy games). For example, have your dog sit before you throw a tennis ball, before you put the leash on. Add duration to your cues of sit-stay with each repetition. Ask your dog to wait before he goes out the door, before he eats, or before he/she jumps out of the car.

Right from the start, make frequent little quiet moments part of your dog's daily routine. Remember, a puppy is not like an irritating child's toy. You cannot simply remove the batteries from a rambunctious adolescent dog. Instead you must learn how to "turn off" your dog. Learn to use walks and your puppy's favorite and most exciting games as rewards for settling down quietly and calmly.
Throughout the course of the day, have your puppy settle down for longer periods of time at home. For example, when watching the television, have your pup lie down on-leash, or in his bed, but during the commercial breaks, release the puppy for short, active play-training sessions.
When playing with your puppy, have him take a break every 30 seconds or so. To begin with, have the pup lie still for just two seconds before letting it play again. Use a release command, such as "Free Dog," "Ok", or "Let's Play." After 30 seconds, interrupt the play session again with a three-second quiet moment. Then try for four seconds. And then five, eight, ten, and so on. Alternate "Settle Down" with "Go Play" and with each repetition, it becomes progressively easier to get your puppy to settle down quickly.
Once your pup gets the picture, the exercise may be profitably practiced on walks. When walking round the block, periodically have your puppy settle down for just a few seconds before resuming the walk. An entertaining way to train is to instruct your pup to settle down every twenty yards or so, while you read this article! I hope you will read and re-read it many times!
Positive Reinforcement...
Puppies are easy to train. In fact, a young puppy will do just about anything you ask, especially when we use that sweet pitch as a reward! As the puppy grows into an adolescence, however, it begins to ask world-shattering questions, such as "Why?"
Just because your puppy has learned what "Sit" means, it does not necessarily mean she will sit when you request her to do so. Therefore, the most important ingredient of any educational program, weather for children or dogs, is "Why comply?" You must teach the relevance of complying. I believe, once you have taught your puppy the positive consequences of cooperating, she will eagerly want to behave!
Make it Fun...
First ask yourself, what does my puppy love? Make a list! Then institute a simple and effective rule: Nothing will be denied, nor withheld from the pup, but the puppy has to sit beforehand. It's just common canine courtesy, really. Nothing more than a puppy "please."
Does your puppy like to play Tug? Great! this is a fun game and will give your pup some indoor exercise! The key to this game is following the rules: Your pup must wait until you make eye contact and say “take it” before grabbing the tug toy. After some good tugging, look away, relax your arm and say “leave it”. If your pup doesn’t know this cue yet, offer a treat to reward him for letting go. After some practice, you will not need to reward with a treat.
In no time at all, your pup will learn the importance of complying with your wishes and will be only too willing, eager, and happy to oblige. Now your dog will want to do what you want it to do because you make her life fun and exciting! Positive Reinforcement is “heads-and-tails” above any adverse training programs!

Basically, you need to convince your pup that he or she is the trainer and you are the pupil! As Ian Dunbar says in his book, After You Get Your Puppy, your puppy needs to believe, "Sitting is the canine cue — the veritable key to the door — which makes my owners do anything I want. If I sit, they will open doors (how courteous). If I sit, they will massage my ears (how affectionate). If I sit, they will share the couch (how cooperative). If I sit, they will throw the tennis ball (how athletic). And if I sit, they will serve supper (how well-trained)."
Rewards...
The rewards of having a well mannered dog are endless! For starters, you can take your dog anywhere and not be stressed. Having a well behaved dog saves time as you can get through your day with less hassle, and you can be proud of you pup! Inviting friends over to the house is no longer dreaded as your pup has a new set of skills to show off! Jumping on Grandma is no longer an issue because your dog has learned to sit when ever he meets a new person. No sit, no reward, it is that simple!
So be a great dog owner and give your dog plenty of Reinforcement for well performed behaviors!
10 Household Items That Can Poison Your Pet
07/21/09 15:22
While most of my topics are about training, I feel it is important that we are all aware of household toxins. There are actually many common household items which can be toxic for dogs and cats. Ingestion of just a small amount of some cleaning products, food, and plants can be fatal. Other toxins, exposed to paws and skin, can cause serious illnesses. Be sure to keep the following items away from your pet!
- Laundry Detergent including fabric softener sheets can cause digestive problems, irritation of the mouth and tongue, and even death.
- Mouse and Ant killer can cause enormous damage so take your pet to a vet immediately if you suspect your dog has been contact with this poison.
- Chocolate even in small amounts can be harmful to your dogs nervous system so never feed a dog any food containing chocolate.
- Ice melt on driveways and stairs can easily become stuck to paws and fur. When an animal cleans itself, ingesting the chemicals in the ice melt, there can be harmful reactions including skin irritations, seizures, and even death.
- Oleander, mistletoe, and lily plants are toxic to dogs and cats. Just one leaf from an oleander can kill a small pet. When discarding these plants, do not burn them. Inhaling the smoke can be harmful.
- Macadamia nuts contain a toxin that can wreak havoc on a dog’s digestive and nervous systems.
- Tylenol can be fatal if given to a dog or cat.
- Antifreeze is deadly for dogs, unfortunately the sweet smell does attract dogs.
- Avocados, raisons, grapes and onions all contain toxins that can cause kidney failure.
- Mouthwash contains boric acid, so never use this on your pet.
Feedback - Why? When? How often?
05/28/09 15:11
When training our dogs, we often expect them to read our minds. Well, they can’t! But you can help them by offering feedback to them. What is feedback? It is a way of helping your dog know when he is doing something acceptable or not.
Good dog handlers offer their dog feedback on their behavior throughout the day. When you see your dog laying calmly on the floor, let them know you are happy with this behavior! Say, “good dog, what a good dog”, in a sweet voice.
If you have a puppy, you should be giving him feedback constantly! I mean if you are with him an hour, then offer feedback 50-60 times! For Example, when in puppy class I am always encouraging my clients to reward their puppy when ever they allow another puppy near them or begin to play with another pup. I want puppies to know that I am thrilled when they play well with another dog.
What if we have a bully in the class? I follow that bully around and say, “good dog, yes, good girl, what a good girl”, when she is nice, so the second she gets to rough, I am there to say, “uhuh, take a break” in a lower tone, then again as she eyes another playmate, I am again letting her know, that she is a “good girl, nice play, gentle, what a good girl”, all in a sweet voice.
Remember puppies need to play rough to learn how to resolve problems so having a bully is not a problem, it just means they need more Feedback!
How about when teaching your dog a new cue? When you first say “Stay” your dog has no idea what you mean. But if you reinforce the stay cue by saying “stay, good stay, that is a good stay”, in a sweet voice then offer a quick reward of food or affection. Your dog will surely learn quicker when you talk sweetly and repeat the behavior that he is doing the right. This type of Positive Feedback quickens the learning process with your dog.
So be a Great Dog Owner and give your dog lots of feedback!!
House Training
04/15/09 11:34
Puppies will want to pee and poop wherever they have done so before. Your job is to make sure your puppy learns to prefer the outdoors as a toilet – not your carpets!
I recommend you keep your puppy close to you or in a crate and show him where he should potty every 2 hours to start. Then gradually increase the time between trips out doors. If your puppy does have an accident, don't react. Any punishment will be unproductive and could even encourage your puppy to eliminate more often as a submissive gesture to your reaction. You can take away your puppies water about 7 PM and replace it with a few ice cubes.
Approximate Overnight Holding Limit = 1½ times the Daytime Holding Limit
Example: 3 month puppy can hold for 1½ x 4 = 6 hours overnight
Whenever you are unable to supervise your puppy with 100% attention, you need to place her in either a short-term or long-term confinement area.
Your puppy can be placed in a short-term confinement area such as a crate if she will be there for less than her holding limit. The purpose of the crate is to keep her out of trouble while you are unable to supervise her, and to help you house train her. The crate should be just big enough for her to be able to lie down on her side with outstretched limbs, stand up, and turn around easily. It should not be so big that she thinks there is enough space for a bedroom and for a toilet area! When you let her out of her crate you can bring her straight outdoors and reward her for doing her business in the right place.
For longer confinement periods a bigger area, with non-absorbent flooring, such as a bathroom, kitchen, or utility room, is needed. The long-term confinement area should have a bed or open crate at one end, and a pile of newspaper, a puppy pad or a strip of sod at the opposite end. Your puppy will naturally want to eliminate as far as possible from her bed. If the space you use for long-term confinement happens to have a door that leads to the outdoors, then place the toilet area near that door. This way, your puppy’s toilet area is as close as possible to where she should ultimately be heading to do her business. Fresh water and stuffed chew toys should also be plentiful, and should be placed near her bed.
Your Puppy will naturally have the urge to eliminate after a nap, a meal, a drink, exercise, excitement, or time spent in confinement. Give your puppy the opportunity to do her business outdoors at these times. When your puppy does her business in the right place offer her a treat, plenty of praise, a game or a walk. This will speed up her house training habits.
Punishing a puppy for house soiling after it has happened is abuse, not training. If you wait more than a few seconds after your puppy has eliminated before expressing your disapproval, your puppy will not know why she is being punished. If you catch your puppy about to pee or poop in the wrong place you can clap your hands and say “Ah-ah”, and swiftly scoop her up to the outdoors to continue. Punishing her after the fact just makes her anxious for you to return the next time as she will assume you will be aggressive every time you come home.
If you would like your dog to poop promptly when you take her out, then teach your puppy that a prompt poop is her ticket to a walk around the block. This will encourage her to poop as soon as you let her out – and will allow you to leave the stinky poop bag at the house, rather than having to carry it around for much of the walk. If you do the opposite, take her for a walk, and ending her walk as soon as she does do her business, she will learn to delay pooping!
Also, you must be consistent! If you train your puppy to poop while on a leash M-F, then you cannot expect her to poop on Sat. in the back yard off the leash. Our puppies do not generalize information that well, so if she is having accidents, you must consider her schedule and what you have taught her.
House Training Options:
Considering the use of Puppy Pads?
How about a Litter Box?
Advantages of Crate Training
I recommend you keep your puppy close to you or in a crate and show him where he should potty every 2 hours to start. Then gradually increase the time between trips out doors. If your puppy does have an accident, don't react. Any punishment will be unproductive and could even encourage your puppy to eliminate more often as a submissive gesture to your reaction. You can take away your puppies water about 7 PM and replace it with a few ice cubes.
Approximate Overnight Holding Limit = 1½ times the Daytime Holding Limit
Example: 3 month puppy can hold for 1½ x 4 = 6 hours overnight
Whenever you are unable to supervise your puppy with 100% attention, you need to place her in either a short-term or long-term confinement area.
Your puppy can be placed in a short-term confinement area such as a crate if she will be there for less than her holding limit. The purpose of the crate is to keep her out of trouble while you are unable to supervise her, and to help you house train her. The crate should be just big enough for her to be able to lie down on her side with outstretched limbs, stand up, and turn around easily. It should not be so big that she thinks there is enough space for a bedroom and for a toilet area! When you let her out of her crate you can bring her straight outdoors and reward her for doing her business in the right place.
For longer confinement periods a bigger area, with non-absorbent flooring, such as a bathroom, kitchen, or utility room, is needed. The long-term confinement area should have a bed or open crate at one end, and a pile of newspaper, a puppy pad or a strip of sod at the opposite end. Your puppy will naturally want to eliminate as far as possible from her bed. If the space you use for long-term confinement happens to have a door that leads to the outdoors, then place the toilet area near that door. This way, your puppy’s toilet area is as close as possible to where she should ultimately be heading to do her business. Fresh water and stuffed chew toys should also be plentiful, and should be placed near her bed.
Your Puppy will naturally have the urge to eliminate after a nap, a meal, a drink, exercise, excitement, or time spent in confinement. Give your puppy the opportunity to do her business outdoors at these times. When your puppy does her business in the right place offer her a treat, plenty of praise, a game or a walk. This will speed up her house training habits.
Punishing a puppy for house soiling after it has happened is abuse, not training. If you wait more than a few seconds after your puppy has eliminated before expressing your disapproval, your puppy will not know why she is being punished. If you catch your puppy about to pee or poop in the wrong place you can clap your hands and say “Ah-ah”, and swiftly scoop her up to the outdoors to continue. Punishing her after the fact just makes her anxious for you to return the next time as she will assume you will be aggressive every time you come home.
If you would like your dog to poop promptly when you take her out, then teach your puppy that a prompt poop is her ticket to a walk around the block. This will encourage her to poop as soon as you let her out – and will allow you to leave the stinky poop bag at the house, rather than having to carry it around for much of the walk. If you do the opposite, take her for a walk, and ending her walk as soon as she does do her business, she will learn to delay pooping!
Also, you must be consistent! If you train your puppy to poop while on a leash M-F, then you cannot expect her to poop on Sat. in the back yard off the leash. Our puppies do not generalize information that well, so if she is having accidents, you must consider her schedule and what you have taught her.
House Training Options:
Considering the use of Puppy Pads?
- Advantage - Portable and indoors
• Disadvantage – Dog may view any paper lying on the floor as fair game. This process can eventually lead to training outside, but adds an extra step.
How about a Litter Box?
- Advantage – Portable, indoors, doesn’t require going outside and dog doesn’t have to wait for someone to let her outside.
• Disadvantage – Daily cleaning of litter box, not a good choice for medium or large dogs.
Advantages of Crate Training
- Keeps puppy safe when you can not watch your puppy.
• Teaches puppy to keep his area clean.
• Should never be used as punishment but
• Should be used as a safe haven for your pet.
• Begin when you first bring your puppy home. Start with just a short time and increase the time as your puppy feels comfortable.
• Do lure your puppy in and out with treats so he enters on his own. Do not shove your puppy in and shut the door right away.
• Keep the crate in a place where your puppy can hear you talk to him.
Negative versus Positive Training
03/07/09 12:33
Unfortunately, there are a few really nasty Dog Trainers and Breeders out there. If at any point you happen to meet a dog trainer or breeder who asks you to do any of the following, please don’t!
These are adverse (negative) training methods of the stone age and will only cause fear and stress in your dog! Not to mention your dog will not trust you unless you repair your relationship with him through counter conditioning.
The good news is there is a better way!! Positive Reinforcement Training is not only a beautiful way to motivate your dog to act as you would like him to, it is also the most effective. This type of motivational training will strengthen your relationship with your dog, and help him feel safe and satisfied at ALL times. And, it will be much more enjoyable for you -- and your dog!
Do you believe your dog feels excitement, curiosity, fear, exhaustion, sickness? Sort of like a child? Well, it’s true! That’s why we should really evaluate how we treat Mans Best Friend!
I have always enjoyed having a special relationship with the dogs and horses I spend time with and train. This relationship is not only built on trust, but in being aware of what the animal is trying to tell me. So I ask that you try to listen to what your pet is telling you. Is he fearful? In pain? I don’t believe animals are ever simply stubborn. Rather, I do believe they may lack motivation, do not feel safe or are physically uncomfortable with what we are asking of them.
So, do not always request, wait for a response and reward your pet, but request and listen to your pet! You might just learn something new about your Best Friend, and build a stronger relationship based on trust!
-- Judy
- Pinch your dogs ear
• Roll your dog over and hold him down
• Shake your dog
• Teach your dog the down cue by stepping on the leash near his collar
• Pick your dog up in the air by his collar
• Use a pinch collar as a correction
• Use a shock collar as a correction
• Scruff your dogs neck
• Make your dog submit to his fears
These are adverse (negative) training methods of the stone age and will only cause fear and stress in your dog! Not to mention your dog will not trust you unless you repair your relationship with him through counter conditioning.
The good news is there is a better way!! Positive Reinforcement Training is not only a beautiful way to motivate your dog to act as you would like him to, it is also the most effective. This type of motivational training will strengthen your relationship with your dog, and help him feel safe and satisfied at ALL times. And, it will be much more enjoyable for you -- and your dog!
Do you believe your dog feels excitement, curiosity, fear, exhaustion, sickness? Sort of like a child? Well, it’s true! That’s why we should really evaluate how we treat Mans Best Friend!
I have always enjoyed having a special relationship with the dogs and horses I spend time with and train. This relationship is not only built on trust, but in being aware of what the animal is trying to tell me. So I ask that you try to listen to what your pet is telling you. Is he fearful? In pain? I don’t believe animals are ever simply stubborn. Rather, I do believe they may lack motivation, do not feel safe or are physically uncomfortable with what we are asking of them.
So, do not always request, wait for a response and reward your pet, but request and listen to your pet! You might just learn something new about your Best Friend, and build a stronger relationship based on trust!
-- Judy
Winter Walks
02/16/09 20:14
We are fortunate to live in an area where there are so many dog friendly beaches and dog parks! This is also a fun way to meet friends who are also crazy about their dog! In addition, dog parks are great places of high distractions, if you want to practice your dogs cues, this is a great place! Remember to focus on adding positive reinforcement to your training!
Here’s a great link with information on local “dog-friendly” parks: portlandonline.com
If however you share your life with a shy dog that sits between your legs or worse, growls and snaps at the other dogs while at the park, then the dog park is not for you. Hey, that is okay, not all dogs are social, that doesn’t make them a bad dog. There are many other options to exercise your dog than taking them to a dog park.
Walking our dogs in the winter takes a bit of extra effort for sure. I find it difficult to walk in the soft powder as I do not have snow shoes, but if you do and you have a medium to large dog, their is no better way than to earn your dogs love! Trail blazing on snow shoes or cross country skis is a fun way to exercise both you and your dog.
Going to the beach is a great way have fun with your dog. If your dog likes to fetch, you can walk along and play fetch for great exercise. If your dog is not as well trained as your would like and runs too far away from you, try using a long 30 to 50 foot light weight rope to keep your dog from wandering too far. If this makes your nervous, than consider taking my Outdoor Adventure Class!
Always keep in mind your dog’s needs such as wearing a sweater, booties and providing fresh water after your walks. Also, if you need to motivate your dog to stay near you, take two levels of reward with you. Either yummy treats or a favorite toy! Many dogs would rather play fetch with their owner than run off to smell another dog. This is normal and perfectly fine! Your dog is saying you are more fun and exciting than anyone else on the beach, how awesome is that!
Regardless of the location you choose, safety with your dog in the parking lot is a must! First use the leash to tether your dogs until you have them under voice control. Ask you dog to wait while you gather your belongings while your door is open. Practice will turn into habit for your dog and soon you will be able to leave the car door open with your dogs waiting nicely in side. Don’t take chances, always use a leash to be ultra safe when cars are nearby!
So I hope you are able to get out and enjoy the winter months with your dogs, they will love you for taking them with you! If you are just not a cold weather person, consider asking a neighbor or young teenager to walk your dog for you.
Until Spring have fun in the snow!

AKC Canine Good Citizenship Evaluator
01/29/09 14:07
Good News! I have recently passed the American Kennel Club’s Canine Good Citizenship Evaluators exam! I am thrilled to be able to offer you this service in a fun and relaxed atmosphere! Our first class will be near the end of February, and will be held indoors at the Tender Touch Veterinary Facility.
What is the American Kennel Club Canine Good Citizenship program?
This program focuses on teaching responsible dog ownership to owners, and certifies that their dogs have the training and behaviors needed to be reliable, well mannered members of our community. All dogs that have received their vaccinations are welcome to participate, regardless of their breed.
This Certificate is not a title and is non competitive, as dogs are not expected to perform with the same precision required in formal obedience. As part of the program, you are encouraged to communicate with your dog and praise him generously! Of course, you know I wouldn’t have it any other way!
The AKC Canine Good Citizen Test Requirements are as follows:
Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger
Test 2: Sitting politely for petting
Test 3: Appearance and grooming
Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)
Test 5: Walking through a crowd
Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place
Test 7: Coming when called
Test 8: Reaction to another dog
Test 9: Reaction to distraction
Test 10: Supervised separation
You can sign up and take the test without having previously taken the class, though it is encouraged. Either way, I am happy to help you and your dog earn this rewarding distinction! Call or E-mail me for details! Judy
What is the American Kennel Club Canine Good Citizenship program?
This program focuses on teaching responsible dog ownership to owners, and certifies that their dogs have the training and behaviors needed to be reliable, well mannered members of our community. All dogs that have received their vaccinations are welcome to participate, regardless of their breed.
This Certificate is not a title and is non competitive, as dogs are not expected to perform with the same precision required in formal obedience. As part of the program, you are encouraged to communicate with your dog and praise him generously! Of course, you know I wouldn’t have it any other way!
The AKC Canine Good Citizen Test Requirements are as follows:
Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger
Test 2: Sitting politely for petting
Test 3: Appearance and grooming
Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)
Test 5: Walking through a crowd
Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place
Test 7: Coming when called
Test 8: Reaction to another dog
Test 9: Reaction to distraction
Test 10: Supervised separation
You can sign up and take the test without having previously taken the class, though it is encouraged. Either way, I am happy to help you and your dog earn this rewarding distinction! Call or E-mail me for details! Judy
Help for the Fearful Dog
01/08/09 19:45
Fearful dogs avoid people or things that frighten them, may seem depressed or disinterested and sometimes lunge or do a barking
display to make what they’re afraid of go further away. If you’ve decided to share your life with a shy dog, take heart. The following information can help you understand what he is feeling and give you ways to help him get better.
Many of you have met Pablo, my boxer/border collie mix. He is very fearful of all people, even children which is why I take him everywhere! I have people toss or hand feed him treats every week. I have even had strangers toss him treats in the car window when he was growling. This has helped tremendously as he doesn’t mind people passing by my car anymore! Pablo’s mother was also very fearful of people, so he is fearful because of his genetics. I always let strangers know he is in training and would appreciate not being stared at or petted.
Different Kinds of Shyness
The most common kinds of shyness in dogs are:
Social shyness, where the dog is fearful of unfamiliar people or certain kinds of people. Dogs like this are sometimes described
as “taking a while to warm up,” “one man dogs” or “protective.” They are usually fine with a certain person once they get to know them. Examples are dogs who are afraid of men or big men or men with beards, dogs who are uncomfortable around children, and dogs who bark at the sight of people with unusual gaits. Dogs can also be shy with other dogs.
Context fears, where the dog is afraid of certain kinds of situations. Examples are dogs who are afraid of going to the vet, panic during car rides, avoid traffic or are uncomfortable in new places.
Sound sensitivities, where the dog is afraid of sudden loud noises. These dogs flatten and try to escape when a car backfires, or pace and salivate during thunderstorms or fireworks.
Why Is He Like This?
Fear is very common in all animals. Although it’s possible that a fearful dog has suffered abuse or a bad experience, most of the time fears result from a combination of a genetic predisposition and some lack of experience, especially in the first months of life. For instance, a dog may have missed out on becoming socialized to certain kinds of people by simply not being around them enough when he was a puppy.
Will He Get Better?
Most fearful dogs can be helped to gradually improve. This is a long, slow process in most cases and requires patience. Shy dogs are not for everybody. They need caretakers who have compassion and perseverance.
What Can I Do?
The best thing for a fearful dog is to expose him to what frightens him but at a milder intensity and combined with a fun or positive association. So, a dog who is afraid of children might start to feel more comfortable if he regularly sees children but at a distance where
he doesn’t feel too worried. Then, if his guardian praises, pats him and gives him treats after the dog has noticed the kids, the dog might start to see the kids as good news: “Wow, great things happen to me when kids are around!”
A dog who is afraid of traffic would benefit from audio tapes of traffic sounds, time spent near quieter streets, all combined with games,
treats and happy talk from his guardian. As the dog improves, time can be spent on busier and busier streets. Dogs learn strongly from
association and positive reinforcement.
Should I punish my dog for growling?
No. When dogs growl, they are saying “I am scared, you are really freaking me out!” Just remain calm and offer your very scared dog a treat. If he is too afraid to eat a treat, then put some space between you and what ever the dog is afraid of until he is comfortable to eat a treat.
How Can I Help My Shy Dog Get Used to Visitors?
The best possible strategy is to let the dog go at his own pace. Any kind of pressure or coercion to make contact usually makes things worse. Let the dog hide if he needs to, investigate things and come to people when he feels ready. People can offer or toss treats but instruct them to not try patting the first time the dog comes to investigate them. This can be very hard for people to do, so remind them to keep their hands to themselves early on.
For more detailed information on how to make your shy dog feel safe in different situations contact me by phone or email! I am always happy to help owners understand why their dog may be acting aggressively and how to help them!
display to make what they’re afraid of go further away. If you’ve decided to share your life with a shy dog, take heart. The following information can help you understand what he is feeling and give you ways to help him get better.
Different Kinds of Shyness
The most common kinds of shyness in dogs are:
Social shyness, where the dog is fearful of unfamiliar people or certain kinds of people. Dogs like this are sometimes described
as “taking a while to warm up,” “one man dogs” or “protective.” They are usually fine with a certain person once they get to know them. Examples are dogs who are afraid of men or big men or men with beards, dogs who are uncomfortable around children, and dogs who bark at the sight of people with unusual gaits. Dogs can also be shy with other dogs.
Context fears, where the dog is afraid of certain kinds of situations. Examples are dogs who are afraid of going to the vet, panic during car rides, avoid traffic or are uncomfortable in new places.
Sound sensitivities, where the dog is afraid of sudden loud noises. These dogs flatten and try to escape when a car backfires, or pace and salivate during thunderstorms or fireworks.
Why Is He Like This?
Fear is very common in all animals. Although it’s possible that a fearful dog has suffered abuse or a bad experience, most of the time fears result from a combination of a genetic predisposition and some lack of experience, especially in the first months of life. For instance, a dog may have missed out on becoming socialized to certain kinds of people by simply not being around them enough when he was a puppy.
Will He Get Better?
Most fearful dogs can be helped to gradually improve. This is a long, slow process in most cases and requires patience. Shy dogs are not for everybody. They need caretakers who have compassion and perseverance.
What Can I Do?
The best thing for a fearful dog is to expose him to what frightens him but at a milder intensity and combined with a fun or positive association. So, a dog who is afraid of children might start to feel more comfortable if he regularly sees children but at a distance where
he doesn’t feel too worried. Then, if his guardian praises, pats him and gives him treats after the dog has noticed the kids, the dog might start to see the kids as good news: “Wow, great things happen to me when kids are around!”
A dog who is afraid of traffic would benefit from audio tapes of traffic sounds, time spent near quieter streets, all combined with games,
treats and happy talk from his guardian. As the dog improves, time can be spent on busier and busier streets. Dogs learn strongly from
association and positive reinforcement.
Should I punish my dog for growling?
No. When dogs growl, they are saying “I am scared, you are really freaking me out!” Just remain calm and offer your very scared dog a treat. If he is too afraid to eat a treat, then put some space between you and what ever the dog is afraid of until he is comfortable to eat a treat.
How Can I Help My Shy Dog Get Used to Visitors?
The best possible strategy is to let the dog go at his own pace. Any kind of pressure or coercion to make contact usually makes things worse. Let the dog hide if he needs to, investigate things and come to people when he feels ready. People can offer or toss treats but instruct them to not try patting the first time the dog comes to investigate them. This can be very hard for people to do, so remind them to keep their hands to themselves early on.
For more detailed information on how to make your shy dog feel safe in different situations contact me by phone or email! I am always happy to help owners understand why their dog may be acting aggressively and how to help them!
Object Guarding
12/22/08 19:27
Because many dogs do steal and guard different items found in our homes, I wanted to give you some tips on what you can do. As object guarding in dogs can be frightening at times my first priority is to prevent anyone from getting bitten. Although object guarders typically guard bones, valued chew toys and forbidden objects such as plastic wrap, kleenexes, stolen laundry items and garbage on the ground. Some dogs are compulsive in nature to their guarding while others seem triggered by their owners sudden interest in taking the object away. It can be a difficult choice for an owner. Ignore the dog and allow him to pick up and even ingest all kinds of junk or increase the value of the item by showing great interest in taking it away from him.
The best solution for all object guarders lies in priming and practicing the problem scenarios in advance of an emergency. The dog needs to have done numerous exchange exercises in preparation for the one day he truly has something dangerous. If he is relaxed and confident when you approach he will relinquish his prize, but if he is tense and nervous, he will not. The below exchanges are to be performed only by an adult or supervised older children.
Basic object exchange exercises:
1. Give the dog an object that he is unlikely to guard.
2. Say “give” or “leave it” to the dog.
3. Take the object away from the dog.
4. Give a nice yummy treat from your pocket to the dog.
5. Give the same object back to the dog and repeat the exercise several times.
Do 5 or 6 sets, varying the time between repetitions, and then walk away. Do several sets of repetitions a day, varying the object each time. Note, only use low value items in the first few days. When you have a history of successful exchanges you can increase the value of the item you want the dog to relinquish. Remember the higher value item the dog has, the higher value your treat must be. For example, if you are trying to exchange a bone, try old cheddar cheese or turkey.
For severe guarding including any bite history try the following exercise:
Begin by offering the dog with an item a handful of bonus treats. This will teach the dog that when a hand comes near his mouth good things will happen! Offer Bonus treats several times a day until your dog begins to lift his head and wag his tail when you approach. Once your dog is not growling anymore, you may begin exchanges.
1. Do exchanges with objects of no interest, several sets of 5 a day for 3 days.
2. Do exchanges with a slightly more coveted object, again several sets of 5 a day for 3 days.
3. Try exchanges with hot objects, using extra special treats, several sets of 5 a day for 2 or 3 days.
4. Exchanges with low to mid-value objects the dog has spontaneously taken possession of do several in a row, then leave the dog with the item unless it is a Object Guarding in Dogs forbidden object. In this case give an extra handful of treats on the last trial and replace the object with a chew toy.
5. Exchanges with hot objects the dog spontaneously has taken possession of do several in a row for extra special reinforcers, then return the object to the dog or replace with an interesting chew toy.
6. Maintenance of exchanges are called “cold trials” when the dog has an object and only one reinforced repetition is done, then give the toy back or replace the forbidden object with a well liked chew toy.
7. These trials should be practiced for the day when you find yourself in an unplanned situation at the park, in your car or while visiting a friend.
8. While young children should not do exchanges, they should have the dog in a NIFF (nothing is for free) training program.
Common Unfortunate Situation in Guarding Dogs:
When the puppy is under the table with a forbidden object a human comes in, pulls him out and punishes him. The puppy learns that a human hand reaching towards him is very scary and possibly painful. The next time the puppy steals something because it is fun, he heads under the table for safety. The human comes in and offers a treat in his hand, the young dog remembers the punishment and refuses to come out. When the human tries to coax him out, dog whines because he is anticipating the punishment. The human reaches for the dog, the dog growls because he is afraid. The dog gets slapped or cuffed for growling, the dog learns that growling didn't make the scary human go away. The next time someone reaches under the table, the dog knows growling doesn't work but he is still very afraid so he tries biting! Wow, that worked, the human backed off quickly. The dog has now learned how to make the scary stimuli go away, bite!
The only way to change the dogs association with a hand coming at him is through POSITIVE REINFORCERS. Hence offer food from your hand as often as possible in a day. When the dog is guarding an item, in the beginning, the hand only offers or tosses yummy goodies, it doesn't take away until the dog is no longer afraid. This time table depends on how much consistent positive reinforcers are given!
My Favorite Guarding Resource Progression is by Jean Donaldson, Author of The Culture Clash
The best solution for all object guarders lies in priming and practicing the problem scenarios in advance of an emergency. The dog needs to have done numerous exchange exercises in preparation for the one day he truly has something dangerous. If he is relaxed and confident when you approach he will relinquish his prize, but if he is tense and nervous, he will not. The below exchanges are to be performed only by an adult or supervised older children.
Basic object exchange exercises:
1. Give the dog an object that he is unlikely to guard.
2. Say “give” or “leave it” to the dog.
3. Take the object away from the dog.
4. Give a nice yummy treat from your pocket to the dog.
5. Give the same object back to the dog and repeat the exercise several times.
Do 5 or 6 sets, varying the time between repetitions, and then walk away. Do several sets of repetitions a day, varying the object each time. Note, only use low value items in the first few days. When you have a history of successful exchanges you can increase the value of the item you want the dog to relinquish. Remember the higher value item the dog has, the higher value your treat must be. For example, if you are trying to exchange a bone, try old cheddar cheese or turkey.
For severe guarding including any bite history try the following exercise:
Begin by offering the dog with an item a handful of bonus treats. This will teach the dog that when a hand comes near his mouth good things will happen! Offer Bonus treats several times a day until your dog begins to lift his head and wag his tail when you approach. Once your dog is not growling anymore, you may begin exchanges.
1. Do exchanges with objects of no interest, several sets of 5 a day for 3 days.
2. Do exchanges with a slightly more coveted object, again several sets of 5 a day for 3 days.
3. Try exchanges with hot objects, using extra special treats, several sets of 5 a day for 2 or 3 days.
4. Exchanges with low to mid-value objects the dog has spontaneously taken possession of do several in a row, then leave the dog with the item unless it is a Object Guarding in Dogs forbidden object. In this case give an extra handful of treats on the last trial and replace the object with a chew toy.
5. Exchanges with hot objects the dog spontaneously has taken possession of do several in a row for extra special reinforcers, then return the object to the dog or replace with an interesting chew toy.
6. Maintenance of exchanges are called “cold trials” when the dog has an object and only one reinforced repetition is done, then give the toy back or replace the forbidden object with a well liked chew toy.
7. These trials should be practiced for the day when you find yourself in an unplanned situation at the park, in your car or while visiting a friend.
8. While young children should not do exchanges, they should have the dog in a NIFF (nothing is for free) training program.
Common Unfortunate Situation in Guarding Dogs:
When the puppy is under the table with a forbidden object a human comes in, pulls him out and punishes him. The puppy learns that a human hand reaching towards him is very scary and possibly painful. The next time the puppy steals something because it is fun, he heads under the table for safety. The human comes in and offers a treat in his hand, the young dog remembers the punishment and refuses to come out. When the human tries to coax him out, dog whines because he is anticipating the punishment. The human reaches for the dog, the dog growls because he is afraid. The dog gets slapped or cuffed for growling, the dog learns that growling didn't make the scary human go away. The next time someone reaches under the table, the dog knows growling doesn't work but he is still very afraid so he tries biting! Wow, that worked, the human backed off quickly. The dog has now learned how to make the scary stimuli go away, bite!
The only way to change the dogs association with a hand coming at him is through POSITIVE REINFORCERS. Hence offer food from your hand as often as possible in a day. When the dog is guarding an item, in the beginning, the hand only offers or tosses yummy goodies, it doesn't take away until the dog is no longer afraid. This time table depends on how much consistent positive reinforcers are given!
My Favorite Guarding Resource Progression is by Jean Donaldson, Author of The Culture Clash
Puppy Socialization
12/22/08 14:11
Socializing Your Puppy
Why is it so vital?
When we bring our new puppies home they must learn new smells, friends and sounds. Our new puppies are often easily over stimulated, remember just like a small baby, they need several naps a day! We often find our puppies very inquisitive and fun as they learn their new surroundings at about 10 weeks of age. This is what we all expect in our new family member!
Then at about 16 weeks of age, things change for our puppies. In the wild, this is when a mother would begin to push her puppies away a bit and encourage them to be more independent. Puppies that remain curious and friendly wouldnʼt survive for very long. By nature, after 16 weeks of age, our puppies begin to seek things with much more caution and suspicion. They often become fearful of what they have not encountered before. This means that we have a small window of opportunity to introduce our puppies to many new sights, smells and most importantly, sounds!
This process of introductions is known as Socialization. Some people think it only involves meeting other dogs. While that is a large part of socialization, it is only one part of the equation. Slowly introducing our puppies to the world we live in is vastly important. Even if you are providing your puppy with ample love and attention, he still needs to be introduced to new situations in a controlled fashion. It is IMPORTANT, when you introduce your puppy to new places and people, you must be CALM AND CONFIDENT. If you are worried about your puppies feelings, than he will be worried too. All dogs, even puppies are exceptional at picking up on our feelings of nervous, anxious, worried or confident.
EXAMPLE, Suppose you are walking through a park and you come up to a large statue. Your puppy becomes frightened barks frantically and pulls away. What should you do? Help your puppy see the statue for what it is. So, stay calm and ask your puppy to walk back and forth in front of the statue at a distance that he feels safe. With each pass, get a little closer to the statue all the while feeding your puppy something tasty! Continue passing slowly back and forth until your puppy will take a treat while sitting in front of the statue. Yes, this may take some time, but is well worth the effort. You have just helped your puppy “Rebound” from something scary.
If time is an issue when your dog has a bad reaction, simply loosen his leash and distract him with a toy or treat in a very calm manner. He should only feel your confidence on the lead and assume if “my leader is confident, I will be too”. Remember, also to give your puppy a treat or affection when he remains calm during odd sounds. Many of us do not reward our puppies when they act calmly. Why is this? Remember to REWARD the behavior you want. This will give your dog confidence as he learns how you expect him to behave.
Finally, knowing your dogs breed characteristics will help you better shape his behavior. Such as German Shepherds may be more protective, something you will want to be aware of and handle at an early age if necessary. Boarder Collies are sensitive to sounds and trained to respond to them. Shelties are great for letting you know when there is an intruder in the area, therefore barking is a part of their make-up. So introducing your puppy to many new environments with positive associations as this is the key to having a happy and balanced dog!
Judy Moore
Canine Behavior Counseling, LLC 4 Merion Way Cumberland, ME 04021
Website: caninebehaviorcounseling.com Office: 207-829-6043 Mobile: 734-417-3689
Why is it so vital?
Then at about 16 weeks of age, things change for our puppies. In the wild, this is when a mother would begin to push her puppies away a bit and encourage them to be more independent. Puppies that remain curious and friendly wouldnʼt survive for very long. By nature, after 16 weeks of age, our puppies begin to seek things with much more caution and suspicion. They often become fearful of what they have not encountered before. This means that we have a small window of opportunity to introduce our puppies to many new sights, smells and most importantly, sounds!
This process of introductions is known as Socialization. Some people think it only involves meeting other dogs. While that is a large part of socialization, it is only one part of the equation. Slowly introducing our puppies to the world we live in is vastly important. Even if you are providing your puppy with ample love and attention, he still needs to be introduced to new situations in a controlled fashion. It is IMPORTANT, when you introduce your puppy to new places and people, you must be CALM AND CONFIDENT. If you are worried about your puppies feelings, than he will be worried too. All dogs, even puppies are exceptional at picking up on our feelings of nervous, anxious, worried or confident.
EXAMPLE, Suppose you are walking through a park and you come up to a large statue. Your puppy becomes frightened barks frantically and pulls away. What should you do? Help your puppy see the statue for what it is. So, stay calm and ask your puppy to walk back and forth in front of the statue at a distance that he feels safe. With each pass, get a little closer to the statue all the while feeding your puppy something tasty! Continue passing slowly back and forth until your puppy will take a treat while sitting in front of the statue. Yes, this may take some time, but is well worth the effort. You have just helped your puppy “Rebound” from something scary.
If time is an issue when your dog has a bad reaction, simply loosen his leash and distract him with a toy or treat in a very calm manner. He should only feel your confidence on the lead and assume if “my leader is confident, I will be too”. Remember, also to give your puppy a treat or affection when he remains calm during odd sounds. Many of us do not reward our puppies when they act calmly. Why is this? Remember to REWARD the behavior you want. This will give your dog confidence as he learns how you expect him to behave.
Finally, knowing your dogs breed characteristics will help you better shape his behavior. Such as German Shepherds may be more protective, something you will want to be aware of and handle at an early age if necessary. Boarder Collies are sensitive to sounds and trained to respond to them. Shelties are great for letting you know when there is an intruder in the area, therefore barking is a part of their make-up. So introducing your puppy to many new environments with positive associations as this is the key to having a happy and balanced dog!
Judy Moore
Canine Behavior Counseling, LLC 4 Merion Way Cumberland, ME 04021
Website: caninebehaviorcounseling.com Office: 207-829-6043 Mobile: 734-417-3689